Hawthorn, Mosman

Stepping into the pristine Mosman real estate, diners abuzz and spotless white furniture, I felt like a wedding crasher at a socialite’s nuptial. You could say it’s the marriage of Jonah’s ex-manager Sean Byrne and Bill’s ex-head chef Marco Salvador – so what’s not to celebrate? Calling for freshly shucked Sydney Rock Oysters ($4) helped is get in the mood. This paved the way for a Salad of Sautéed Prawns ($17) with green papaya, purple basil and Vietnamese mint, balanced nicely with a glass of their St Claire Sauvignon Blanc ($11). The bouquet of garden herbs behind me were a pleasant compliment to the freshness of the food. For main I kept the aquatic theme afloat with Fish of the Day ($26), a grilled Kingfish with a posy of blood orange reduction. My dining partner’s Grilled Chicken Breast ($25) on soba noodle, with a sesame and snow pea salad reflected Marco’s heritage (we can’t forget his time at Bill’s Tokyo.) Stroll outside and it’s a post-colonial beach-house, settle into the wine bar and it’s a gentleman’s library with tufted leather furniture and stained glass windows. Tasteful dining and a relaxed, breezy manner make it a match made in heaven – I felt I’d died and gone to Hawthorn.

Sauteed Prawns

Hawthorn Mosman
707 Military Road, Mosman
Ph: (02) 9968 4244 www.hawthornmosman.com.au
Modern Australian $$$
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Bodhi, Sydney

By day, in the heavenly surrounds of Hyde Park and St Mary’s Cathedral, you’re in for a unique vegan yum cha experience. Sheltered by Moreton Bay fig trees, with the tranquil sounds of church bells on the hour and wait staff who stroll leisurely by with trays of food, I felt a calmness that the hustle and bustle of yum cha has never brought before. And in the city, no less! Fresh Rice Noodle Folds with Vegetarian Prawns ($8.50) look very prawn-like but taste of tofu. Steamed English Spinach Gow Dumplings ($6.50/3)are fresh, tasty and leafy. Keep in mind that Buddhist vegans cannot eat onion, chives and garlic, ingredients found in most yum cha restaurants, so it’s a stripped back experience, which does call for condiments. However the Steamed Carrot Ginger Gow Dumplings ($6.50/3) impressed me thoroughly, as did the Spinach Spring Rolls ($7.50/4) served with a light orange and lemon sauce.  The Steamed BBQ Chicken Bread Buns ($6.50/3) were a flavoursome faux-meat treat. With a pot of jasmine tea or better still, a bottle of organic Bodhi Semillon Sauvignon ($29), their house drop from the Hunter Valley, you’ll be zenned out in no time. Thankfully the church bells with help you keep track of time.

I can't believe they're not prawn!

Bodhi
Lower Mezzanine Level, Cook & Philip Park, 2-4 College Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9360 2523 www.bodhi.id.au
Vegetarian/Yum Cha $$

Eastern Treasures, Bondi Junction

As leagues clubs go, this Chinese restaurant is a treat. No buffet in sight, no MSG in the air and a bountiful à la carte menu. We commenced with Prawn Dumplings ($5.50/4) and Pork Dim Sim ($5.50/4) so big, plump and juicy it was like Yum Cha after cosmetic surgery. A mere $39 gets you your very ownPeking Duck plus a bottle of wine (Tuesday-Thursday). Presented to the table and prepared as duck pancakes. You then have a choice of Duck Noodles or San Choy Bow. We opted for the latter and as we ploughed through the scrumptious pancakes it was whisked off to the kitchen, minced and served on a fresh lettuce leaf the size of a baseball mitt. Their pièce de résistance is the Sweet and Sour Barramundi ($38.80) with orange sauce, turning heads as it’s wheeled out – big, bright and looking like it’s leading the New Year Parade. The fish was cooked to perfection, the crisp batter offering a nice crunch, but over-sweetness let it down. For me, it was more of a celebration on a plate. Luckily the delicate fried rice gave it an essential savoury balance – success! Some of the pokies profits have invested wisely in this Chinese extravaganza.

Eastern Treasures
93 – 97 Spring Street, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9386 9180 www.eastleaguesclub.com.au
Chinese/Seafood $$-$$$

Swallow Coffee Traders, Rockdale

Cafe owners in Rockdale are faced with a bitter pill to swallow – it’s brightly coloured, visible from the train, and tastes like the best coffee in town. At 24 years old, Angus Nicol, the boy wonder of the café world, has opened a unique cafe with partner Jess Hol. Age has no barrier on palates; they serve up dishes with wisdom and flair beyond even their combined years. The Corn Fritters ($10) with avocado, sweet roasted capsicum salsa are delightfully fluffy, the conglomeration of sweet and savoury make it the perfect breakfast dish. Their ever-changing menu is a regular’s dream but has me worried I’ll never get to try the Barbequed Peach ($9) with ricotta, pear and vanilla jam on rye which sounds to me like a picture of summer. Proving that the ‘burbs aren’t a coffee wasteland, the Single Origin coffee beans and innovative ‘naked portafilter’ (or “crotchless” as the barista calls it), pours out perfect crema. Nothing is compromised; they even use Country Valley milk. I couldn’t resist a freshly made Passionfruit Slice ($2.20) its creamy filling screamed for more coffee – just to check the last one wasn’t a fluke. Don’t take my word for it, go and discover for yourself.

Corn Fritters

Swallow Coffee Traders
1/7 Tramway Arcade, Rockdale
Ph: (0414) 924 685
Cafe $

Ruby L'otel, Rozelle

A working-class pub with a feminine touch: this Rozelle ‘local’ had a suffrage movement makeover. I dived into the Soft Shell Tacos (4 for $20) choosing chicken, beef, fish and lamb, but wanting more. Mental note: aim for Taco Tuesday when they’re a mere $3 each. They’re fresh, open and look like a floral median strip waiting to be demolished. Reach for the Salsa Picante (which literally means ‘to sting’) for a true taste of South-East Mexico. And washed down with a Hahn Superdry ($5.20) for that fire-blanket in your mouth experience. The Thai Beef Salad ($17.50) is a pyramid of flavour with succulent, rare beef slices stacked with cherry tomatoes, cucumber slithers, chilli and peanuts. For something off the beaten track (most likely off the Texas Turnpike) I tried the Deep Fried Pickles with ranch sauce ($9). Ugly food that is surprisingly tasty. Although it will probably fade into the ‘where are they now’ food group that deep-fried camembert and Mars disappeared. If the menu is sounding familiar it’s because it’s the same brains behind the uber-trendy Norfolk in Surry Hills. I dare say this is their less popular cousin, but with its stunning outdoor atrium and chilled patrons, it could stand the test of times.

Pub Bistro $$

Ruby L’otel

68 Victoria Road, Rozelle

Ph: (02) 9555 1900 www.rubylotel.com.au

Mamasan, Bondi

Prawn and Mint Spring Rolls

Thankfully, Bondi’s only venue for Yum Cha get it spot on, offering it day and night so that locals never have to leave. Sinking into the couch, surrounded by bottles of Sake on the walls and Godzilla’s on the bar, I am greeted by the vibrant host Gemma Lin who informs me I’m in for a modern day Yum Cha experience. I like to think of it as Asian Tapas with new flavours given to old recipes. Like the King Prawn and Mint Spring Rolls ($13) – lightly deep-fried and using the whole prawn. Traditional Yum Cha specialties are still there, such as the BBQ Pork Buns ($8) – doughy, chewy and oozing with flavour. Steamed Chinese Broccoli ($9.80) is leafy and covered in Oyster sauce goodness. The Beef and Chive Dumplings with Sichuan Sauce ($15) are a Taiwanese delight and so fresh you can smell the trail of sesame oil in the air from the kitchen. Their cocktail list is adventurous, with an Asian fusion flavour, I recommend the Lychee Sau Wau ($16), a lychee and sake based punch with hints of mint and lime. It’s served in a miniature carafe that screams of Alice in Wonderland – drink me? The whole experience has me saying: yes please.

Mamasan
57-59 Beach Road, Bondi
Ph: (02) 9130 5066 www.mamasan.com.au
$-$$ Yum Cha

Bloodwood, Newtown

Bloodwood, Newtown

Being named “best bar with food” is a bit of a kick in the face for a restaurant. Kind of like an artist winning best frame with painting. But it reaffirms what I’ve always thought about Bloodwood. The vibe, décor and cocktails reach great heights but the food just doesn’t match up. Nonetheless the 3 ex-Claude’s chefs who’ve headed to the inner-west on a bohemian reinvention are very popular. Wooden doors hang from the ceiling with exposed pipes and light fixtures, making this a Lewis Carrol meets Ghostbusters experience. Their signature Polenta Chips ($9) with Gorgonzola dipping sauce disappoint- starchy planks of polenta with a rich sauce that punches above its weight. Highlight for me is the Walnut tart ($21) with delicate layers of beetroot and samphire (AKA trendy asparagus). The cocktail menu shines- with sophisticated twists like the Bloodwood Mary ($15) replacing kitsch celery with green olive, to a hurricane for your senses in the chilli-rum based Mother Nature ($15). After being left at the bar waiting for a table, it can’t hurt to order the delightful Sourdough Bread ($3) from Luxe Bakery to mop up some of the booze. Bloodwood might not have spectacular food, but it makes for good blood thinner.

Bloodwood
416 King Street, Newtown (02) 9557 7699 

www.bloodwoodnewtown.com
Modern Australian  $$$


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